How Coffee Is Processed
8 min read
You've probably seen the words "washed" or "natural" on a coffee bag and wondered what they mean. They refer to how the coffee cherry — the fruit that surrounds the coffee bean — is removed after harvesting. It sounds like a minor agricultural detail, but processing is one of the biggest factors shaping what your coffee tastes like. Two beans from the same farm, processed differently, can taste like entirely different coffees.
Here's what's actually happening, and what to expect in the cup.
Washed (Wet Process)
This is the most common method worldwide and the standard in Colombia, Central America, and East Africa. The fruit is stripped from the bean within hours of picking, usually by a machine called a depulper. The beans then soak in water tanks for 12–72 hours, where naturally occurring enzymes break down the remaining sticky mucilage layer. After that, they're rinsed clean and dried on raised beds or patios.
Because the fruit is removed early, washed coffees tend to showcase the bean itself — its terroir, its variety, its altitude. The flavors are typically clean, bright, and well-defined. If a washed Ethiopian tastes like jasmine and bergamot, that's the bean talking, not the processing.
If you're new to specialty coffee, washed coffees are a great starting point. They're the most transparent expression of where the coffee comes from. When people describe a coffee as "clean" or "crisp," they're often describing the washed character.
Natural (Dry Process)
The oldest method — just lay the whole cherries out in the sun and let them dry with the fruit still on. This takes 2–4 weeks, with constant turning to prevent mold. As the fruit dries around the bean, sugars and compounds from the cherry ferment and absorb into the seed.
The result is usually a fruitier, heavier, sometimes wilder cup. Think blueberry, strawberry, tropical fruit, wine-like sweetness. A well-processed natural Ethiopian can taste like blueberry jam. A poorly processed one can taste fermented or boozy — naturals have a higher variance than washed coffees because the process is harder to control.
Naturals have exploded in popularity over the past decade, especially in the specialty world. They're common in Ethiopia (where the method originated) and Brazil (where water scarcity makes it practical). If you like bold, fruity, sweet coffees, naturals are your lane.
Honey (Pulped Natural)
A middle path. The skin of the cherry is removed, but some or all of the mucilage — the sticky, honey-like layer between skin and bean — is left on during drying. The amount of mucilage left determines the subtype:
- White honey: Most mucilage removed. Closest to washed. Clean with a touch of sweetness.
- Yellow honey: Some mucilage. Moderate sweetness and body.
- Red honey: Most mucilage intact. Noticeably sweeter and fuller.
- Black honey: All mucilage left on, dried slowly. Intensely sweet, almost syrupy body.
The name has nothing to do with actual honey — it comes from how sticky the beans are during drying. Honey processing is most associated with Costa Rica, where producers have refined it into an art form, but it's increasingly common in Brazil, El Salvador, and other Central American countries.
Expect something between washed and natural: more body and sweetness than washed, more clarity than natural. Honey-processed coffees often have a pleasant round sweetness without the wild fruit bombs of a natural.
Anaerobic Fermentation
This is the newer, more experimental category that's been turning heads at competitions. The beans (with or without fruit) are sealed in airtight tanks — sometimes stainless steel, sometimes plastic barrels — and allowed to ferment in an oxygen-free environment. Producers can control temperature, duration, pH levels, and even add things like fruit juices or yeasts to guide the fermentation.
The results can be extraordinary or polarizing. Intense, complex, often unlike anything you'd expect from coffee — flavors like cinnamon, bubblegum, passion fruit, fermented grape. Competition coffees frequently use anaerobic processing because it produces unique, memorable cups that stand out in blind tastings.
Anaerobic coffees tend to be more expensive because the process is labor-intensive and risky (if the fermentation goes wrong, the whole batch is lost). If you see "anaerobic" or "anaerobic natural" on a bag, expect something bold and unusual. If you love experimenting, these are worth seeking out. If you prefer classic, clean flavors, they might be too much.
Other Methods Worth Knowing
Wet-hulled (Giling Basah): Common in Indonesia (Sumatra, Sulawesi, Java). The parchment layer is removed while the bean is still wet, which is unusual. This produces the earthy, herbal, low-acid profile that people either love or hate about Sumatran coffee. If your coffee tastes like dark chocolate, cedar, and damp earth, it's probably wet-hulled.
Carbonic maceration: Borrowed from winemaking. Whole cherries are sealed in CO₂-filled tanks, creating a slow, controlled fermentation. Produces very clean, juicy, sometimes sparkling flavors. Popularized by competition baristas and Australian roasters.
Lactic fermentation: The cherry or mucilage is fermented in conditions that encourage lactic acid bacteria (similar to yogurt or sourdough). Produces creamy, smooth, sometimes tangy cups. Common in experimental lots from Colombia.
What Should You Try?
If you usually buy commercial coffee and you're exploring specialty for the first time, start with a washed coffee from Colombia or Guatemala. It'll taste clean, balanced, and recognizably "coffee" while being noticeably better than what you're used to.
If you already drink specialty and want to explore, try a natural Ethiopian — it's the gateway to fruit-forward coffee. Then branch into honey-processed Costa Rican or Brazilian coffees for something in between.
If you're adventurous and don't mind spending more, an anaerobic lot from a Colombian producer will show you how far coffee flavor can stretch.
Processing method is one of the filters on Bakio — you can browse and compare coffees by how they're processed and see which ones offer the best value in each category.